The wine: Alamos Torrontés 2007 Argentina

The reason: Yes, there is more to Argentina than Malbec from Mendoza.

This exotically aromatic dry white is a bargain way to meet the country’s second great gift to the world of wine, the Torrontés grape, most of which is grown in the much more northerly vineyards of Cafayete in the province of Salta

Torrontés comes in several sub-varieties and, while it may originally have come from Spain, has etched its own very distinctive Argentine personality. It has something in common with Viognier in that it is headily perfumed, full bodied but is generally dry.

The first examples I came across back in the mid 1990s tended to be a bit too alcoholic, a bit oily and sometimes a little bitter. But since then there has been a refinement of the style.

Alamos Torrontés 2007 Argentina is a great value example of modern Torrontés, part of a well-distributed range produced by Catena, the most cosmopolitan and successful Argentine wine producer. The Alamos wine is beautifully packaged – looks far more expensive than it is - but it also tastes good.

Torrontés characteristically has a particularly exotic grapey aroma with something floral about it. This example is all that, but it is so rich aromatically that it almost smells like toffee.

However there is so much racy, tingling acidity on the palate that it could happily be served with strongly flavoured salads and pasta dishes, although I think it would probably be best as an aperitif.